The skin is a very complex organ that performs important functions of maintaining homeostasis (self-regulation), protecting the body from mechanical, chemical and infectious agents. At the same time, she has the ability to quickly repair the damage caused by various mechanisms of self-regulation.

Proper skin care serves as the basis for maintaining its health and youth, and is also able to relieve the symptoms of some skin diseases. The main strategy for such treatment is corneotherapy, the method of restoring the function and integrity of the layer of corneum. It includes protection of the upper skin layer from damage, supplying the skin with essential fatty acids, moisture, stimulating regeneration, using peeling products, as well as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects products.

To understand how cosmetics work, you need to understand how the upper skin layer is built - the dead cell layer called the epidermis.

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Imagine a stone wall. White stones are cornocytes that are dead cells of the epidermis. "Cement", which links the cornocytes, is a lipid between cells (from the ancient Greek word λίπος - fat). "Hamlet" is formed by three types of lipids: ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids (saturated and unsaturated). The proper functioning of the protective barrier and its permeability depend on these lipids (fats).

 

If there is no lipid in the required amount, the protective function of the epidermis is impaired. In this situation, a top layer of skin can be compared with the leaking roof of the house, which cannot protect the inhabitants (living cells) from the outside environment and from infiltrating foreign agents. If something is wrong in the upper tier, living cells are in uncomfortable conditions for themselves, and instead of performing their duties (protection), they spend a lot of resources to maintain the environment in which they live in equilibrium. Sooner or later, however, resources are depleted and imbalances arise, leading to a number of pathological processes.

The broken epidermal barrier functions as an open gate, allowing bacteria, allergens, free radicals, UV rays, and active cosmetics to intensify irritation, redness, and water loss. To prevent excessive water loss, the natural epidermal cells (dead) cells slow down. This is reflected in the roughness, thickening and greyish-reddish hue of the upper skin layer.

 

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An inflammatory reaction that occurs in the affected area is accompanied by the production of reactive oxygen species. An oxygen depletion of the skin develops which leads to further damage to the epidermal cells (upper layer of cells), free radicals causing lipid oxidation (lipids), which are no longer sufficient. Against this "trauma", the cells lose their ability to independently restore the oily barrier to the skin, leading to greater moisture loss.

Kligman became the founder of dermatology radiation therapy, which aims to restore the skin's protective functions and thereby improve its condition. Today members of the dermatological community support Kligman's ideas in a theoretical and practical way. Corneotherapy is used to treat diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, and is also used to prevent premature aging.
The protective fatty barrier can be easily damaged by inappropriate and aggressive cultivation, skin cleansing with soap or surfactant-containing products, use of acids and retinoids without the use of moisturizers and restorations. The protective barrier is also damaged by the ultraviolet rays, which stimulate lipid peroxidation in the cornea layer (top layer of dead cells). In this case, antioxidants are needed, and the top layer has its own, but their reserves can be depleted.
If the oily skin barrier is damaged, the skin dries, becomes hypersensitive and irritated, inflammation and redness appear on it. Such skin can even adversely affect cosmetics that in the past fit it perfectly.

 

The principles of radiation therapy, or how to repair the skin barrier.

1. Superficial cleaning or gentle peeling

Using soap and other aggressive detergents, the epidermal barrier breaks down and develops the so-called Wash-Out-Effect - reducing oily skin. Moderate skin cleansing is necessary. You should also temporarily abandon the rubbing peels. In contrast, peels containing glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid are recommended for use.

 

In 1974, US researchers Eugene Van Scott and Rui Yu, who developed drugs for ethathiosis, began to study the effect of alpha hydroxy acids on the skin. They found that these substances weaken the contact between the skin's surface layer flakes and cause their accelerated discharge. Hydroxy alpha acids not only accelerate the loss of dead cells, but also produce a number of other effects - improve collagen synthesis, elastin, hyaluronic acids, dissolve keratin glands in the sebaceous glands, and reduce skin pigmentation. Many scientific studies have confirmed the ability of alpha-hydroxy acids to improve skin condition, and are now used as a tool for a wide range of diseases - solar aging, dry skin, acne and pigmentation disorders. Alpha hydroxy acids include citric, malic, lactic, lactobionic, tartaric and many others. Beauticians and dermatologists usually use glycolic acid. This not only causes dead cell scaling, improves fat secretion and reduces cell peeling in the glandular ducts, but also encourages deeper penetration of the skin's medical ingredients.

 

To moisturize the skin, lactic acid is usually used. It increases the moisture content in the upper layer of the skin and does not adversely affect the epidermal barrier.

 

Often, cosmetics designed for problem skin contain salicylic acid, which refers to beta-hydroxy acids. It dissolves fats so that it penetrates well to the glands. Cosmetics with glycolic and salicylic acids can be applied daily as part of regular skin care. Home care products typically contain 2% salicylic acid. More concentrated salicylic acid peels perform less frequently - with at least 2-4 weeks interval. Clinical studies show that alpha hydroxy acids are safer than other acne treatments. They are not mutagenic (the ability of the chemicals to cause mutations), unlike retinoids, do not damage the epidermis barrier (as opposed to surfactants, alcohol and acetone), do not suppress the immune system and do not affect the normal biological environment of the skin (unlike antibiotics). However, alpha hydroxy acids increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation and in addition, they can cause irritation. In order to reduce the discomfort from acids, the skin is gradually "accustomed" to them: Before performing peeling in concentrated solutions, products with low concentration of acids are used for some time. Most people get along well with cosmetics containing 10% glycolic acid with a pH of 3.5. If this concentration also causes skin irritation, you can try a preparation with a reduced concentration of glycolic acid (2-5%) or with a slightly higher pH (4-4.5). The addition of cola or green tea extracts, bisbolol and other anti-inflammatory substances can reduce skin irritation.

2. Humidity

When the granular layer barrier structures are broken, the skin is unable to retain moisture.
But many modern cosmetics contain similar components to a natural substance that is in a cornea layer and responsible for its ability to hold the water, that is, the natural skin moisturizer (NMF), located inside and above the cranocytes (dead cell layer) and linked to water molecules, namely: hyaluronic acid, glycerine, Amino acids, aloe extract, propylene glycol, lactic acid, urea.

Creams, which create a barrier to work as an ambulance. If the skin is damaged by illness, after chemical, mechanical or laser peeling, or after an intense loss of water, then the first step is to stop water loss. So living cells will not suffer from a lack of moisture and can function normally.

 

3. Restoration of the protective barrier, consisting of "lipid treatment".

 

After the first epidemic caused by damage to the epidermal barrier has passed, fats can be used: they will penetrate the skin's depth and provide cells with building materials.

 

Natural oils are used for this purpose, and the mechanism of action will depend on their composition. Some oils contribute to the accelerated synthesis of the fatty barrier components, others affect the epidermal living cells and have anti-inflammatory properties, while others give a bandage effect, creating temporary coverage that mimics the effect of natural fat on the skin.

 

Ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol, that is, the same lipids, which together with cornocytes form the basis of the corneal layer of the epidermis, are the substances that restore the protective barrier. They are "embedded" in the epidermis, fill in the gaps, participate in cellular metabolism as well, and serve as a substrate for the synthesis of natural fats.

 

Particularly effective are lipid mixtures composed of physiological lipids: ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. They may be included in formulas both as separate molecules and as structural forms (liposomes and extracts).

The radiation therapy, which has a positive effect on the skin, makes it healthier and therefore younger.

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